Several passengers from different ethnic groups tell me that Qinghai Lake has a different name in different languages. Mongolians call it Koko Nor while Tibetans call it Tsowenbu. The two names mean the same thing—“green lake”. The ethnic Han Chinese call it Qinghai hu, which literally means “green sea lake”. The word hai “sea” was inserted there perhaps to stress that the lake was so big that it looked like a sea.

When seen from afar, Qinghai Lake is like a blue sapphire mounted in the vast expanse of the plateau. The surface of the lake is like a huge mirror, reflecting the white clouds and wild geese flying in the sky in a most charming manner.

In the middle of the lake are four islets like four pearls scattered on the surface of the lake. The largest of the four islets is Haixin Island, which boasts trickling springs, fragrant flowers and a lamasery. In every winter when Qinghai Lake freezes over with a thick layer of ice, lamas, with their daily necessities carried on their backs, will trek across the lake’s frozen surface and spend several months on the island. During this period they concentrate on their transcendental meditation without any interference from the outside world.

Bird Island is the most famous island in Qinghai Lake. The luxuriant water plants and grass on the island attract huge flocks of migratory birds. Before the train arrives at Bird Island, some environmental activists hand out brochures about the protection of wild birds. They say that most of the birds have flown all the way from the Malay peninsula, over the towering Himalayas and Hengduan mountains, before they finally reach the island and breed. Not far from the island is an islet called Egg Island. This is a very small island indeed, its total area being only 110 square meters. Birds’ eggs are scattered all over it.

Qinghai Lake produces a fish called huang whose meat is delicious. As it has no scales whatsoever on its body, it is also called luo li “naked carp”. When told about this, the tourists burst out laughing.

Around the lake are extensive alpine meadows. In summer, as it now is, a profusion of golden rape flowers extends as far as the eye can see. In the past such a scene could only be seen on television, now it is unfolding right in front of us. Our arrival at Qinghai Lake luckily coincides with Tour de Qinghai Lake International Road Cycling Race. This event adds vivacity to the magnificent highland scenery.